[ATM] tile tool
shanelapierre at me.com
Tue Mar 29 09:03:59 JST 2011
Got it. I think you are fine. Did you start at 220? For any tile I have ever seen that should be adequate, as long as the tool & mirror seem reasonably close.
I don't have a lot of experience with larger mirrors and somewhat smaller tools... but I think if you pretend that tool is a full-size and do 1/3 strokes (let your tool overhang ~3" all the way around) you should be in good shape. Don't move on until your tiles are all in good contact. Do the sharpie test once the tiles have all de-glazed and are in good contact.
Truthfully, I would have thought 2 hrs should have been more than enough time to wear out your glaze.
Also, thx for the note on who cast this for you. How did it look on arrival? Is it a quality cast? Did you check for strains in the glass? I would be curious to know how good it is.
On Mar 28, 2011, at 7:56 PM, Jerry Hillman wrote:
> The tool supplied was cast against the mirror. The tool is 16 inch diameter. The mirror is 20 inch diameter. (19.75 actually). My concern is that the tiles are so rough to begin with that by the time I get them in good contact, the curve will be destroyed.
> Jerry B.
> --- On Mon, 3/28/11, Shane LaPierre <shanelapierre at me.com> wrote:
>> From: Shane LaPierre <shanelapierre at me.com>
>> Subject: Re: [ATM] tile tool
>> To: "Jerry Hillman" <truckeratm at sbcglobal.net>, "ATM list" <atm at atmlist.net>
>> Date: Monday, March 28, 2011, 11:45 PM
>> Ok... let me revise my answer a
>> Best case scenario would be (or would have been) find a
>> matching or cast a matching tool. For casting, you can
>> use dental stone, plaster of paris or other and attach the
>> tile to the now matching tool. Did you start grinding
>> with a matching tool, or did you grind a flat tool against
>> an f4 mirror?
>> If the tool and mirror are matching, then you can proceed
>> right to 220 and start grinding using a 1/3 W stroke (that's
>> the stroke the books will tell you). The goals will be
>> to to remove any pits from the previous grade and to make
>> sure the mirror and tool match.
>> So let us know if the tool/mirror are matching in
>> curve. Finally, what is the diameter of this mirror
>> and the tool?
>> Shane LaPierre
>> On Mar 28, 2011, at 6:28 PM, Jerry Hillman wrote:
>>> The mirror blank has the curve hogged out by the
>> person who cast the mirror. It is already f/4. I
>> can't even find out what stroke I should be using at this
>> point. The books really don't cover pregenerated
>>> Jerry B.
>>> --- On Mon, 3/28/11, Shane LaPierre <shanelapierre at me.com>
>>>> From: Shane LaPierre <shanelapierre at me.com>
>>>> Subject: Re: [ATM] tile tool
>>>> To: "ATM list" <atm at atmlist.net>
>>>> Date: Monday, March 28, 2011, 10:21 PM
>>>> You are fine. Are you still
>>>> hogging out the original curve?
>>>> The mirror/tool don't really take their proper
>>>> shape until you start doing the W stroke later on.
>>>> Just get close to your desired depth, then switch
>>>> change your stroke and the mirror/tool will start
>>>> their proper (and complimentary) shapes. At
>> that point
>>>> the glaze should be worn off all the tiles.
>>>> Shane LaPierre
>>>> On Mar 28, 2011, at 6:15 PM, Jerry Hillman wrote:
>>>>> I know this has been answered but when I tried
>> to find
>>>> it in the archives I came up with 100's of posts
>> about tile
>>>> tools. I can't find what I need.
>>>>> The tile tool that was supplied with my mirror
>>>> was made with textured tiles. After two
>> hours of
>>>> grinding the glaze is coming off the tiles in the
>> center but
>>>> I can still see the texture everywhere else.
>> Is this a
>>>> problem or should I throw it away and make a new
>> tool. Or
>>>> continue as i am until all the roughness is ground
>> off. I am
>>>> worried that I will destroy the curve.
>>>>> Jerry B.
>>>>> ATM mailing list http://www.atmlist.net/
>>>> ATM mailing list http://www.atmlist.net/
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